Tribal Style Headdress and Makeup Booklet
By Carolena Nericco (www.fcbd.com)
Published by Folkwear Patterns (www.folkwear.com)
9.95 US

When I saw this booklet on Folkwear’s website, I was excited. I am a newer belly dancer and here was a booklet with information in printed form I could keep with my performance gear and reference when my laptop was not handy. The price didn’t seem to bad so I thought ‘why not’ and I ordered it from Folkwear. Once the booklet arrived, I was thoroughly disappointed. My $9.95 (plus shipping and handling) booklet was a ten-page pamphlet that gave good instructions on turban tying and less than basic make up instructions. After I got over my initial disappointment, I couldn’t help but wonder why this was published as a booklet instead of included with the FatChanceBellyDance tribal ensemble pattern that Folkwear sells. Yes, there are color photos in the booklet but they are simply numbered and referred to in a general sense, they do not bear captions and sometimes have steps already ‘done’ that the text has not gotten to. As for the guidelines, they are very general and could as easily apply to your “everyday” or “going out” make up and are not specifically “stage” directions. If you are a FatChanceBellyDance fan, you might want this to complete your collection but otherwise, it’s best to pass on this booklet.

Belly dance photos in comic book form!

http://www.sabressquirrel.com/multiveil/Comic.html

I listened to snippets of this album on MySpace.com as I have Maduro as one of my 'friends'. The clips sounded cool so I found my way to the ITMS, grabbed the album and loaded it onto my iPod. Excited, I began to listen to it and quickly found to my surprise not only how much I disliked what I was hearing but how hard it was to simply listen to it and take it in. Confused a bit at this new experience, I gave it a few days before I decided to try again, this time making an effort to concentrate on what I was hearing and pay attention. Again, I found myself disappointed by the dislike I had for the album. After careful thought on the subject I have found that I do not like it because it just sounds like a basic rhythm on a loop that has no connection to a human drummer and the electronica that accompanies the rhythm doesn't add anything special to the experience. While some may enjoy the 'modern' feel of the album I know that if it doesn't hold my attention enough to simply listen to it, dancing to it will be impossible.

~Desari

I first learned bellydance from video while I was searching for classes. It helped me when I did find a local class and I was able to move along really well. Once new moves and then footwork were introduced though, I had more difficulty. I couldn't just point a remote at my instructor and push "Stop" or "Pause". The classes had to move on without me feeling like I could ever catch up. This had a snowball effect. In the meantime, I would go over my videos and acquire new ones. I devoured performance DVDs as well as instructional. I could study the nuances that I couldn't learn in class whether it wasn't taught or I wasn't able to absorb it. I took intermittent sessions off from live classes but would still be watching and working with my DVDs. I learned things like fluidity in the dance that I didn't in class. With DVDs, in a comfortable environment I had access to an encyclopedia of moves in an instant. I didn't have to wait months and years for my teacher to teach me. I could tailor my learning to suit me better than any one else could. If I take a class or workshop now, I am still in control. I have knowledge of what it is that the teacher is not covering. And I can appreciate what it is that she offers that I don't get from a DVD. It is all about learning to trust my intuition. While I recommend that anyone wishing to learn the joys of bellydance take classes, I also recommend they supplement with DVDs. People learn at different paces. Mine improved when I was in control. With DVD and video, one CAN learn quicker and dance well.

Desari is the founder of The Everyday Bellydancer tribe on Tribe.net
http://tribes.tribe.net/everydaybellydancer

How to make Coin Hair Sticks - A happy tutorial by Stormriver Tribal!

Please use this information and methodology however you see fit, even for commercial purposes--Here is the kicker- if you use this design for commercial purposes you have to tell people the process and share the knowledge if asked. My copyrighted designs are free for those who would keep them free, otherwise we have a problem. We all hear about the "Tribal Community"-be a good neighbor and help out others. I sell Stuff - but my first obligation is to teach my craft and pass on the arts I know to others.

CAUTION-WARNING-ADVISORY: Please follow good fire safety precautions and read all warnings, labels, and instruction on materials and equipment used. Basically if you choose to do this your do so at your own risk!

Sorry had to include that from a legal stand point.

We at Stormriver Tribal think this would be an excellent troupe activity to keep costs low per person and get maximum involvement! Spread out the material costs and ask around about the tools, someone probably has everything on here. It would also be an excellent way to get a non-dancer who enjoys making things involved! Think about it, it’s playing with fire what’s niftier than that! If you really like the sticks but just can't do the Hot Work please contact me I'll hook ya up. The ones that are made in the slideshow would be 12 dollars a pair.

Please use the pictures in the slideshow at this address to help you in your endeavors:

http://2232046336.slide.com/p/1/How+to+make+Basic+Coin+hairticks_21

if you would like me to e-mail you the individual pictures just e-mail me!

PART 1: MATERIALS
1-Coins- we used quarters because they should be pretty readily available to most of the people on this list. We also used them because I know the solder will stick, in some coins from other countries there is a high Stainless Steel or Aluminum content which will not work with solder. Brass and or Copper Coins are the easiest to use! Old pennies are great to practice with the new ones can actually melt and ripple up if your not careful.
2-Rods (2-3dollars)- we used 1/8th inch copper coated mild steel. We used this particular kind because today being New Years Day I could not go and buy some brass. I actually recommend brass for this material as it takes solder easily and is easier to work with than steel.
3-Flux (4-7dollars)- Flux comes in a couple of different forms, mostly paste and liquid. Okay I think I will get this right-Flux creates a gas barrier around the metal being worked with which promotes the adhesion of solder. Basically this is the stuff that makes it actually stick when you melt the solder.
4-Solder (2-6dollars)- there are lots of different kinds out there and not all work! I recommend Silver Solder for jewelry or its much cheaper cousin All Wire Plumbing Solder. Not all solder is created equal; if you buy the cheapest stuff expect the cheapest results.

PART 2- TOOLS
1-A hard FLAT non-flammable surface with good ventilation or even better OUTSIDE! I do most of my work on one of three things depending on size. The smallest stuff is done on the back of an Aluminum Frying Pan, the medium stuff is done on a Cinder Block, The largest stuff such as Fire Fans or big huge Coin Pendants is done on a 3 by 3 foot sheet of Aluminum more commonly known as a Road sign I found. Remember Solder will not stick to Aluminum but if you end up with lots of Flux residue it will flow across Aluminum like water when you really get it heated.
2- Torch (about 25 dollars including fuel for a set) - basically you have to have Real Heat-you can try a solder gun or a solder iron but I prefer a torch. The one pictured with my wife is a standard Propane one with a self-striker trigger. I have one of the small cute Butane ones as well but the larger one is cheaper to operate (fuel prices) and cheaper to buy, its just not as pin point as the other.
3- Wire Cutters (5-15dollars)- For this particular type of usage you really do not need ones that are all that good. Although if you want to buy a nice pair of mini-bolt cutters they are pretty fun-LOOK I just cut this penny in half!
4-a File (3-7dollars)- a large flat file is great and easy to use.
5-a Q-tip- Yes I said a Q-tip, this works better than any Flux brush can ever think of for what we are doing here.
6-an SOS or Brillo pad.

PART 3: GETTING STARTED
---Prepare your materials and tools get them together and make sure they all work or are ready to use. If the coins you have are like nasty dirty (extreme Kuchi Funk) scrub them a bit and then dry them. Solder will not stick to overly dirty coins.
---Cut your rod- This can be pre-done at the hardware store if you ask they should look at you crazy and take some convincing but they will usually do it. This is a good reason to support your local small farm/hardware store, they get excited when people are actually doing something and can give you excellent pointers and advice. I like to use 9 inch pieces of rod by the way. Remember brass is easier to use than steel.
---File your Rod(s)- If you are going to be making a multiple tine/spoke hairstick this is very important to do before anything else! File the tip of one end to be smooth and sharp, once this is attached to the coin in a multi-tine stick it’s very very difficult to do. If it is a single tine stick you can hold off til last as it’s easy. I say file because it’s the cheapest hand tool to accomplish this particular part of the job, however if you have access to a Grinder have at it and save some time.
----Take everything you need to your work area.

PART 4: PLAYING WITH FIRE (HOT WORK)
----Once you have everything at your final work area the real fun starts!
---Use a q-tip to Flux the side of the coin you like the least (its gonna be covered)
---Use the same q-tip to Flux the part of the rod that is going to touch the coin
--- Do not over flux, do not under flux, just make sure everything has a nice coating. To much makes a real mess and makes the solder go alot of places you don't want it to. To little and the solder does not stick.
---Cut a few pieces of solder off the roll that are relative to your coin and rod. In the picture you will see that we placed one piece of solder on the outside of each rod and then ran one across. It’s all going to flow and pool eventually but spreading it out like this makes the job easier.
----Apply FIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You want the torch to have enough flame to make a nice cone, you do not need it turned all the way up as the gas pressure will push the solder.
----After it’s all melted LET IT COOL! I usually go smoke a cigarette or have a cup of coffee at this point.
----Does it look sturdy? Tap it on something hard, I actually hit mine against a wall or throw it against the sidewalk/parking lot. (~I do this with my 3 foot fire fans too, that can be brutal if one falls apart!~) Basically you just did quality control, you want these stick to last and be sturdy right? Some people have said I waste too much time on this. I want my stuff to fall out of your hair and be run over and still be useable! It’s also why I guarantee my work against normal wear and tear. Things should not be disposable they should last!
---Did it fall apart? If not you’re good! If it did lets trouble shoot.

PART 5: TROUBLE SHOOTING
---It fell apart and this sucks:( Take these steps.
A: Curse Kelson's name for writing this thing.
B: Did the Solder make a kinda almost bubble half dome button shape and not flow? If that’s the case you need to find another coin. As this one has something in its content that is un-friendly to our purposes.
C: Did the coin stick to the rod or the coin and not the other? Something did not have enough flux probably or the metal is disagreeable. This happens often when using steel. Steel will act like it is floating on the solder. The solder literally pulls under the rod and pushes it up. If this is the case clean it all apply more flux generously and put lots of solder. If you end up with the whole back of the coin a pool and the rod is still not covered go to drastic action. Sit a brick on it while its super liquidy hot. Sometimes it works sometimes it does not.
D: The solder flowed right off the coin- was the surface flat? Was there too much flux? Solder will follow flux to the point of actually turning a corner in flowing.
E: Other problems E-Mail me!

PART 6: CLEANING
--- You’re done with your solder or Hot Work
---Notice the nasty kinda greasy appearance and it feels nasty too! This is the leftover Flux.
---Use An SOS or Brillo pad a scrub the hell out of it!
---If your doing multiple hairsticks or just feel like making it a little easier drop them in a cup with some grease cutting dish soap and water and let them soak. It makes the scrubbing easier
---If the front of your coin is burnt and blackened this is a good thing (to me anyway)
---Scrub the front just enough to get it clean not enough to shine it, this gives the best contrast and definition and brings out the lines.

PART 7: FINISHING UP
---You could actually already be done at this point. Feel all around your work and see if there are any burs or the like. If you are not happy with anything File it off! I thought that the rods on the hairsticks we did needed a bit o plaining down so I did! Its minor in the grand scheme.

PART 8: Enjoy your work; you have something you personally crafted!

PART 9: Share the art. Tell others - Show Others - Teach Others

I hope this will help some of ya'll out e-mail me if you need anything! Please feel free to re-post this if you think it would help anyone out, just please post it all and not snip it.
Look for more tutorials in the future or even better make up one of your own to share your art and knowledge!

Kelson

KELSON-RAVEN-JARRID
Stormriver Tribal
www.myspace.com/stormrivertribal
E-bay ID: stormriverblue and stomrivergreen